Despite truly being London Born and Bred neither of us had ever been to Eltham Palace, so when we heard about the Fleurs de Villes residency back in July it seemed the perfect time to finally visit.
Fleurs de Villes (flowers of the city) travel the world bringing together the works of flower artists - these creatives are something very different from high street florists. The flower artists are challenged to design their floral masterpieces inspired by the location or person. Bringing Fleur de Villes to Eltham Palace meant that the flower artists had a great deal to play with. They could choose to feature the royals who originally occupied the palace, or the Courtaulds who breathed new life into the palace in the 1930s. We were completely wowed by the creations on display, and would recommend Fleur de Villes highly.
Shots of the exterior older parts of Eltham Palace
Eltham Palace, located in southeast London, is a striking blend of medieval and Art Deco architecture with a fascinating history that stretches back to the 11th century. Originally a royal residence, it became a favorite of English monarchs during the medieval period. By the time of Edward IV, a grand Great Hall was constructed, which remains one of the few surviving elements of the original structure. Eltham was especially significant during the childhood of Henry VIII, who spent much of his youth there, walking the halls of the palace that had once hosted lavish royal feasts and ceremonies. Cardinal Wolsey stayed at a house nearby, although he didn't own it. Henry VIII moved away from Eltham in favour of palaces by the water - Greenwich and eventually the Cardinal's own Hampton Court.
The 1930s palace was designed for entertaining, and contains many references to the Courtauld's cruise ship travels. The lighting and colours in the dining room were designed to be flattering to women's complexions.
Following the English Civil War, Eltham Palace fell into neglect. It wasn’t until the 1930s that the Courtauld family, wealthy philanthropists, purchased the estate and embarked on a remarkable restoration. They integrated the medieval elements of the palace with a newly built Art Deco mansion, transforming it into a modern home equipped with the latest technological innovations. Their version of Eltham featured underfloor heating, a centralized vacuum system, and even a built-in telephone system—cutting-edge luxuries at the time.
Stephen and Virginia Courtauld also made space for their beloved pet lemur, Mah-Jongg, who had his own heated quarters. The lemur was bought from Harrods as a wedding gift from Stephen to Virginia. He wasn't a favourite with all their guests though, as he was known to bite. The couple’s lifestyle was both opulent and eccentric, hosting frequent parties that welcomed famous guests, including royalty and actors. Virginia had a tattoo on her leg, the result of a bet, considered rather racey for a woman in the 1930s. Their renovation maintained a balance between preserving Eltham’s royal history and embracing the modern, stylish trends of the 1930s.
The Courtaulds’ staff, however, experienced high turnover. It's recorded that they went through at least 32 maids, many of whom resigned or were dismissed, unable to cope with the family’s unconventional household routines and high standards. We saw Virginia's note pad on the dining room table, these were used to give feedback to the chefs when they were hosting one of their dinner parties.
During World War II, Eltham Palace also played a role in the war effort. The basement was converted into a games room, but during the Blitz, it was repurposed as a bomb shelter, providing safety for the family and their guests.
Some of the flower art in the original Great Hall
Today, Eltham Palace is managed by English Heritage and stands as a symbol of both medieval grandeur and 20th-century innovation. Visitors can explore the surviving Great Hall, wander through its beautiful gardens, and step inside the Courtaulds' lavish Art Deco home, complete with historical furniture and original features, including the lemur’s room and the state-of-the-art vacuum system that once wowed guests. The day we visited there were battle re-enactments involving balloons for child visitors. It looked great fun. There are great views of the City of London from the gardens too.
The palace's layered history, from its days as a Tudor royal residence to its 20th-century transformation, offers a unique glimpse into the lives of both medieval monarchs and modern millionaires. It would be easy to spend a whole day here, taking in the palace and the wonderful gardens.
Getting there: There is parking (additional charges apply), but English Heritage are encouraging visitors to travel more sustainably. If you travel to Eltham Palace and Gardens by train, tube, bus or bicycle there is a 20% discount off your walk-up ticket. Show your bus or train ticket, tube ticket or TfL Oyster and Contactless app at the point of purchase to receive your discount.
Address: Court Yard, Eltham, Greenwich, London, SE9 5NP
Prices and Opening Times English Heritage members are free.
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