On our last visit to Scotland at the end of November, Storm Bert made us re-think our plans to drive straight from Inverness to the Isle of Skye, especially as the Scottish car was in 'limp mode'. So, we booked a chain budget hotel for a few nights and decided to make the best of it, and really spend some time in and around Inverness instead of just picking up the car from its long term parking space and heading off to Skye. It has to be said that the budget hotel, a Premier Inn, was on the bank of the River Ness and really conveniently situated for bars and restaurants. It's a no frills hotel, but comfortable and clean all the same. We parked in the Cathedral carpark which was a 5 minute walk to the hotel and the best value nearby overnight parking spot.
Inverness is regarded as the capital of the Highlands. The name Inverness is derived from the Scottish Gaelic: Inbhir Nis, meaning "Mouth of the River Ness". The city indeed has the River Ness running through it, and many hotels, restaurants and bars are to be found on the river banks. It's not a huge city, with a population of around 50,000. It is the administrative centre for The Highland Council, has a cathedral, a castle (not open currently whilst it is being changed from its original use as the home of Inverness’ prison and courts into a celebration of what makes the Highlands of Scotland a special place to live, work and visit due to open sometime in 2025) and numerous churches, some pretty much side-by-side.
Our flight was delayed due to the snow and storm, so we didn't do much the first day, apart from venturing out to eat in the evening. We choose to eat at the Kitchen Restaurant on the bank of River Ness, which I had pre-booked as it was a Saturday night. This is modern designer three story building with stunning views of the city, and has a simply priced menu, £35 for 2 courses or £40 for 3 courses. Full review to follow shortly, photos below to whet the appetite!
The following morning we drove to Reelig Glen, where we took the Tall Trees Trail. This is about a mile long circular walk where the tallest trees in Europe grow. The walk is signposted from the small car park, which was completely unoccupied when we arrived at around 9 a.m. There was snow on the ground giving a beautiful crackle underfoot, apart from that, the only other sound we heard was the sound of the Moniack burn tumbling below. We didn't even hear any birds or other wildlife, let alone other people.
It's hard to capture the majesty of those tall trees.
Directions from Inverness: Take the A862 west towards Beauly. After about 6½ miles (10.5 km), turn left onto a minor road signposted to Moniack and Clunes. Take a left fork after a long straight stretch of road and continue for another ½ mile (800 metres) mile to reach the small free car park.
On the second day we went to Culloden, the site of the battle between the Jacobite rebels and the English army. It's around a 15 minute drive from Inverness City Centre. There is ample parking here, fee payable.
Bonnie Prince Charlie was hoping to win back the throne for his father, the son of the last Stuart king. He was opposed by his cousin, the Duke of Cumberland, who was fighting to keep the throne for his father, George II. Both men were 25 years old.
The Battle of Culloden, fought on April 16, 1746, marked the end of the Jacobite uprising. On Drummossie Moor, around 5,000 exhausted Jacobites, led by Bonnie Prince Charlie, faced 8,000 well-equipped British Government troops commanded by the Duke of Cumberland. Jacobite forces included Highland clans like the MacDonalds, Camerons, and Stewarts, while opposing them were Government troops and Scottish clans such as the Campbells. The battle was devastatingly brief, with over 1,500 Jacobites killed or wounded in under an hour, compared to just 50 Government casualties.
Leanach Cottage, near the battlefield, has had musket balls found in its thatch. Today, clan markers and a towering cairn commemorate the fallen, a solemn reminder of the lives lost. This is an official war grave, and visitors are asked to respect that, by keeping to paths and not being noisy. The walk along all sides of the battlefield was well marked out with lots of interesting facts about how the battle was conducted, with flags marking the positions of the respective troops. There is a small museum on the site too, though we didn't visit it on this trip (additional fee payable).
We had a decent pub lunch in the Battlefield Bar and Restaurant, we didn't book as we were visiting so off season, but I can imagine that it may fill up with small tour buses in season, so it'd be best to call ahead as there isn't much in the vicinity of the battlefield apart from the cafe within the Culloden site, or the very upmarket Culloden House which Bonnie Prince Charlie requisitioned as his lodging and battlefield headquarters for the three nights prior to the battle of Culloden.
Then we went to the atmospheric Clava Cairns. These are an ancient Bronze Age burial site, dating back around 4,000 years. The site features three well-preserved cairns, each surrounded by a stone circle, with entrances aligned to the midwinter sun. Two passage graves flank a central ring cairn, suggesting a ritualistic significance. The cairns’ intricate design hints at advanced knowledge of astronomy and construction. Archaeological evidence reveals cremated remains, pottery shards, and tools, shedding light on the beliefs and practices of Scotland’s early inhabitants. Surrounded by atmospheric woods and farmland, the Clava Cairns offer a fascinating glimpse into prehistoric life and spiritual traditions. They are open year round, and are free to visit, going off season meant that we only shared the experience with 2 other families.
We were on the look out for an antique farm style chair for Beachcomber Cottage, so decided to have a look at Torguish antique shop which was off the A9, 5 miles south of Inverness. This is a very eclectic antique shop situated on a farm, where we came across discovery after discovery, we were constantly amazed at the treasures which consisted of antiques, salvage and reclamation, vintage vehicles, collectables and oddities. It's spread across 4 buildings, and generally open 7 days a week. No dogs are allowed on the site.
We didn't eat out on the Sunday night as we'd had a substantial lunch at the Battlefield Bar. The following day we had a little wander around Inverness after dropping the car into the garage for an overnight repair (dirty exhaust work that can't be done when other premises are open). We visited a fantastic whisky specialist shop, WoodWinters Wines and Whiskies, with a really knowledgeable manager who let us sample a few drams and helped me chose something a little unusual for my dad's upcoming birthday - he'll be 97, so he's sampled a fair few over the years! He recommended a visit to the famous Leakey's book shop, where we happily browsed the shelves of book and antique prints for a happy hour. This is a must experience place for any bibliophile.
We then wandered to the Victorian market which contains a number of street food vendors with communal eating space, as well as a variety of souvenir shops. It was looking rather pretty in the lead up to Christmas.
We followed this with a light lunch in Mumbai Thistle - we shared a starter of a delicious haggis samosas and a shared Marsala Dosa, both of which were perfect.
In the evening we ate at Mustard Seed on the other side of the river from our hotel. Given it was a Monday night, the place was surprisingly buzzing with happy diners. Housed in a converted 19th-century church, the building retains its historical charm, blending original features with modern touches. The menu showcases fresh, locally-sourced ingredients, with standout dishes like the perfectly cooked Scottish salmon and Scottish Venison which we thoroughly enjoyed. I'd describe this as bistro type fare. We didn't have starters or desserts as we'd had lunch out. Service is attentive and friendly, and the riverside location adds to its allure. Booking essential.
We really enjoyed this winter break in Inverness, it was lovely to have the chance to explore it and the amazing historic and beautiful surrounding areas instead of driving straight to Skye. We're back again next week, as the car needs a final piece of work doing; we'll be dining at Rocpool, so keep a look out for our review.
Torguish House, Inverness, United Kingdom, IV2 5XQ (no website)
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